John Manton
1868
Oil on canvas
ML 272
Presented by Mrs R.B. Abercrombie (nee
Florence Adele Manton), March 1957
In 2004, deploring the demise of the modern
moustache, two Melbourne men initiated the ‘Movember’ campaign to raise funds
for men's health issues. 10 years on ‘Movember’ is now supported by 4.7 million
people in 21 countries.
Men's facial hair fashions have waxed and
waned over time. In this oil portrait, Sydney mine-owner, John Manton, sports a
popular mid-19th century style known as the 'Friendly Mutton Chop' – in which long,
side whiskers hanging well below the jaw line are bridged by a well-trimmed moustache
above a clean shaven chin.
Facial hair
By Margot Riley
Boys begin to sprout facial hair as they
mature into men. Culturally and historically, the growing of facial hair has
long been associated with wisdom and virility. Men can style their facial hair
into beards, moustaches, goatees and sideburns or, alternately, remove it
completely by shaving.
Facial hair has cycled in and out of fashion
since the beginning of mankind. By the eighteenth century, urban Western
European men were usually clean-shaven. Facial hair began to increase in
popularity during the Napoleonic period, initially inspired by the dashing sideburns
sported by hussar regiments. In fact, depending on the country, regiment or
time period, facial hair has played either an integral role in military dress or
been prohibited all together.
The prevalence of beaded versus clean-shaven
men was often dependant of a nation’s state of war. Sideburns went out of
fashion in the early twentieth century and, during both World Wars, civilian men
were required to go beardless to secure a seal on a gas mask though many retained
a moustache; the coming of peace was signalled by the removal of beards and
moustaches as ex-servicemen enjoyed the luxury of a daily shave.
Another factor in the rise and fall of the
beard was the evolution of shaving technology. The first safety razors were
developed in France in the eighteenth century. Rather than shaving themselves, most
men retained the use of a barber but razor blades still required sharpening.
Over a century later, travelling salesman King C. Gillette latched onto the
idea of replacing the blade with a new one; in 1895 he developed the first
modern, double-edged safety razor and selling more than 300,000 annually by
1906. As women began exposing more skin above the ankle and wrist, Gillette
launched the first razor built specifically for women in 1915.